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I'm currently using a Minolta Maxxum 600si, and a couple of Maxxum lenses.
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This camera is laid out with some analog controls more typical
of traditional manual focus cameras, and includes a wealth of features
meeting all of my requirements (at the sacrifice of some I don't
require such as program modes). Simply put: I love this camera.
(For a list of features click
here.)
For portrait work I favour the Maxxum 135mm f:2.8. The angle of
view and ability to control background blur combine nicely, and
I'll even use this lens with group shots where space permits. When
space doesn't permit I'm more apt to use a 50mm normal lens.
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I also use a 24-50 f:4 for both indoor (where space gets tight)
and outdoor vistas. The legendary sharpness of this lens has never
disappointed me.
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Rounding out my day-to-day users is a 70-210 f:4, not a particularly
fast lens, but quite sharp. Although not fast enough for some
types of sporting events, it's quite reasonable for portraiture
and general subjects.
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 The
xi flashes are basic but powerful (not in that they have a huge guide
number, but in that they work with the XXXsi series bodies for TTL wireless
flash without the need for any additional gear. For some excellent demonstrations
of the flexibility of this feature visit Gary
Walts' minolta pages.
A tripod is absolutely required for most kinds of work. When apertures
or lighting conditions start slowing down the shutter, the only way to
ensure sharpness is with camera support. When sharpness is critical, no
shutter/focal length combination is truly acceptable handheld. the choice
to use one will depend on the intended use of the image. Using a ball
head with quick release and some light legs, I feel I can maximize the
benefits of a tripod without losing all of the ease of hand-held framing.
Manfrotto puts out some kits that feature a nice stiffness:weight ratio
(after all, you can't use it if you don't bring it along).
  I
once read the opinion that the best $1000 you could spend on a lens would
be $100 worth of camera support. I would add to this by suggesting you
should then spend $900 worth of effort making sure you use it. The difference
between an optimally used and supported consumer lens and a poorly supported
professional lens can actually favour the former in terms of sharpness.
(The pro lens lets you do things you might not have been able to otherwise,
given similar sharpness requirements and certain shooting conditions,
and can have advantages in terms of contrast and/or colour rendition.)
Although good glass used properly is often the best way to improve sharpness,
upgrading lenses can be very (very) expensive compared to upgrading from
no tripod to one of reasonable quality. Start there.
To read some brief thoughts on film preferences click
here.
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