Hotel Fujiya

The attention to detail is stunning in everything from a grand entrance staircase to intricate and elaborate finials.

The 1930s Art Deco dining room features a hand carved wildlife motif surrounding a ceiling paneled with paintings of local flora. The paintings have faded, but the sense of time enhances their charm.

The Fujiya opened in 1878, and presented a formidable new opportunity for the discriminating traveler as the first Western oriented hotel in Japan. Located in Miyanoshita, a spa town with roots centuries back, rumour has it that a spririt of non-competition realized an agreement between the Fujiya and Ryokan Naraya (founded in the sixteenth century) splitting foreign and domestic travelers between them respectively.

Climbing up to the entrances brings sightlines of different rooflines and styles, and makes you feel as though you're entering a bygone era of grand travel.

The Gardens were impressive (though not at their peak during our winter visit). The sun shone down in the afternoon, and music from the ballroom dancing group leaked in during the evening. Even at night the streams added a tranquil note. And after a walk in the garden, or through the antique shops in town (or a venture up to view Mt. Fuji) it was time for a soak in the tub - each room has hot spring water piped in.

Two parting images:

and the view back down the funicular (which leads up from the Tozan switchback train terminus in Gora.

And then we were off to Kyoto.

the empty cases of champagne stacked by a door,